24h 24h in a city

LISBONNE, PORTUGAL PAR VIRGINIE DA CONCEIÇAO AKA SHINOBI

shinobi

Virginie da Conceiçao aka Shinobi, rayonnante, audacieuse et créative responsable de l’identité visuelle chez Maje, nous embarque pour 24h (ou plus) dans un Lisbonne tout à son image, éclatant de vie et débordant d’énergie.

Haaaaa Lisbonne…une des villes portugaises qui a accompagné ma jeunesse

J’y ai mes petites habitudes, des lieux comme des repères qui me rappellent mon enfance. Une fois par an, depuis toute petite, je rejoignais mon cousin à la capitale quelques jours avant de retrouver ma famille vers Figueira da Foz.

Je découvre néanmoins toujours de jolies adresses et suis à chaque fois surprise et touchée par la gentillesse des gens, la douceur de vivre qui se dégage de l’atmosphère, et la lumière changeante qui accompagne les ballades et apporte les nuances de paille à son fleuve.

Réveil with a view à L’Independente, idéalement placé en haut d’un mirador du Barrio Alto pour admirer le Tage doré et les couleurs de la ville au petit matin. J’adore y prendre mon petit déjeuner dans le patio de leur restaurant le Decadente (où le poulpe est à gouter absolument au diner !!). Adresse super cool et personnel adorable.

A partir de là, c’est marche ! à Lisbonne je ne prends jamais de transports ni de talons d’ailleurs… Je peux y marcher pendant des heures pour découvrir des ruelles cachées. C’est d’ailleurs au pied de la charmante petite place Doutor José Figueiredo que je me réfugie parfois dans le jardin caché du Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga. Un havre de paix avec une vue sublime sur le Taje.

Changement de décors: En 20 minutes je rejoins le nouveau quartier LX FACTORY, sous le pont 25 de Abril avec un projet super excitant en lieu et place d’une ancienne manufacture de textile qui regroupe une incroyable libraire, des restaurants, des bars, des ateliers, et surtout des fresques gigantesques de street artistes. J’y repasse parfois à la nuit tombée pour danser dans l’improbable club à ciel ouvert, le Village Underground, fait de containers empilés, impossible à rater avec son vieux bus suspendu !

Toujours en longeant le Taje, qui nous quitte rarement, je rejoins Belem et son incontournable Pastelaria qui prépare ses pasteis de nata avec la même recette ancestrale. 2 pasteis, un expresso, de la cannelle, et cette odeur enivrante que je ne retrouve que là-bas. Un passage obligé qui m’évoque mon enfance avec tendresse.

J’adore déjeuner à la Taberna Moderna, vers Alfama. Ses petites assiettes proposent des plats portugais revisités, à associer absolument avec un cocktail bien frappé de leur bar à Gin. Je garde une pensée émue pour ce le riz noir au poulpe à partager entre copains, à même le plat !

Histoire de digérer, je grimpe par les petites rues étroites et sinueuses jusqu’au Castelo Sao Jorge pour flâner et encore une fois admirer la vue paisible sur les tuiles rougies par le soleil à son zénith.

Je ne rate jamais une occasion de passer voir les expos du Museo do Design e da Moda près de la place du Chiado. Autrefois une banque, le lieu en a gardé la structure brute aux murs cimentés et propose toujours une très belle programmation. Parfait pour se rafraichir après déjeuner pendant les heures les plus chaudes.

Je remonte le quartier par la Rua da Conceiçao qui porte le nom de ma famille…aucun lien à priori mais c’est un rituel dont je n’arrive pas à me défaire ! Elle m’amène jusqu’à la boutique parfaite pour rapporter un bout de Portugal dans les bagages, « para matar saudades », qui pourrait se traduire par « pour atténuer le sentiment de manque ». Boites de sardines, tapis en récup de tissu traditionnels, eau de linge de lavande, savon de mamies, cartes postales, cette caverne d’Ali baba est parfaite pour prépare les cadeaux du retour.

En plein après midi je vais souvent profiter de la fraicheur du Jardim Botanico pour flâner parmi les espèces les plus verdoyantes et passer un moment dans la serre aux milliers de papillons.

C’est le moment de se préparer pour un coucher de soleil au Skybar, immense esplanade attenante à un délicieux restaurant cap-verdien dont l’entrée peut se faire, pour les flemmard qui veulent préserver leur mollets de la grimpette, par un ascenseur planqué au fond d’un supermarché. Vue sur toute la ville, lumières rasante sur l’horizon devenant rose, piscine de Gin Tonic local….soupir de bonheur.

Pour dîner, j’adore prendre la grande table de la Pharmacia avec des amis pour découvrir leur menu surprise dans un univers de laboratoire revisité. c’est toujours très bon et les clins d’oeil déco au Musée attenant de la Pharmacie nous invitent dans un concept ludique et parfois surprenant.

Je ne sors que très rarement en club à Lisbonne, je préfère ressentir la saudade lisboete que dégage la Mesa de Frades, un endroit magique caché dans l’Alfama. Si la porte est fermée, il faut frapper doucement et attendre que l’on vienne t’ouvrir à la fin de la chanson. A l’intérieur une salle recouverte d’azulejos pleine à craquer de spectateurs écoutant le fado fascinante de cette jeune fille. J’ai encore des frissons en repensant à la première fois où j’y ai entendu sa voix.

Avant de rentrer à l’hôtel, j’aime bien passer dans ce bar hors du temps et improbable qu’est le Pavilhao Chines, fondé par un collectionneur pathologiquement obsessionnel et monomaniaque qui accumule dans les vitrines à thèmes, soldats de plombs, grenouilles en céramique, poupées désarticulées, et autres babioles par milliers. Une merveille art déco pour boire un cocktail des années folles et finir au billard pour une partie approximative.

Et si je pouvais le faire en une journée, l’escapade magique à Sintra est une expérience inoubliable ! Châteaux de princesses en technicolor, manoir gothique, jardins labyrinthiques, un véritable voyage dans temps.

Bon, on repart quand ??

Pic © Alice Balas

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